I just got home from going to a mosque for evening prayer. We went with a friend of one of our Arabic teachers, as well as one of the home stay brothers of two of the guys from our group. We entered the mosque, having removed our shoes, and went downstairs to perform the ablution (cleaning ritual) that is required before going to pray, which basically consists of washing hands, face, arms, ears and feet three times each. Then we went back upstairs and sat in the back of the prayer room. It was quite beautiful, with high domed ceiling encircled with the 99 names of God and beneath that were elaborate, calligraphic verses of the Qur’an. Everyone prays towards the Mihrab, the ornate niche on the southern wall that faces Mecca, though of course we simply watched. The Imam is apparently a very good one, and his recitations were beautiful and full of emotion. At one point he broke down very briefly before continuing. After prayer we stayed a while and discussed the process and meanings of prayer with our two Muslim friends who brought us there, as well as chatting with the friendly, curious, and of course eminently hospitable Jordanians who came over to welcome the American visitors to their mosque (we don’t blend in very well.) This mirrors just about all of my experience with Jordanians, who, while they have deep, sincere beliefs and arguments, particularly with regards to american and Israeli government policies, are very eager to discuss the issues with us. And the idea that those policies, which have without a doubt caused hardship for the Jordanian people (60% of whom are Palestinian) who used to get 75% of their oil for free from Saddam should be an obstacle for friendship on an individual level is extremely rare, even towards the members of our group who are also US Marines.